Surfers paradise

Quel est le plus gros fantasme du surfer ?

Des grosses vagues, un soleil de plomb, et des jolies sirènes virevoltant dans un swell puissant. Voila l’idéal du surfeur, celui qui surf pour l’art, et qui arrache au monstre liquide son essence essentiel , mélange de force et de beauté.
La vague donne la vie au surfeur, dans une gerbe d’écume aveuglante .

Portefolio surfers paradise:

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Respect Is Crucial:
“You’ll hear a lot of people talk about respect in Hawaii and I think some of them don’t truly understand the concept. It’s not all about respecting the tough guy in the lineup, but it’s about respecting everyone and everything over here. Of course you don’t want to be burning some nuts local, but you also want to be cool to the guy that’s just learning. You also need to respect the beaches. Pick up trash when you see it, help someone out when they looked lost. That’s the kind of respect we need out here. It’s more than just about doing the right thing because you’re afraid of getting slapped, it’s about doing the right thing because it’s the right thing to do.”

Where to Stay:
“Come wintertime, trying to find a place to post up is gonna be a bit difficult. With everyone from the surf industry over here for the winter, it’s not easy finding something right in the middle of the action. But I actually think that’s a good thing. If you can stay a little bit removed from the action, I think that’s actually better. It’s less of a scene, which I like. There are some cheaper rentals around V-Land that aren’t bad either, or you can always go the hostel route. It’s always a good idea to check out Craigslist as well.”

Beware of Incoming Swells:
“The most dangerous time to be in the water on the North Shore is during an incoming swell. I’ve seen more people get hurt in those conditions than in any other situation. It can go from 2 feet to 8 feet in an hour, so you need to keep your guard up and be aware of how the conditions may be changing around you.”

Take a Lay Day:
“I think this rings true to any surf trip, but it’s important to take some time to get out of the lineup and see what else is out there. Hawaii has such an amazing history and it’d almost be a crime to not take a downday and go learn some things. Go check out the Polynesian Culture Center, go walk through Haleiwa, go to Town and check out Iolani Palace. You won’t regret it.”